The Modern Day Suit
The suit as you may know it today may be traced to its creator Beau Brummel who was crowned the arbiter of fashion several hundred and quite some years ago. The dandy type of that era was later epitomised by artists for instance David Bowie, Mark Bolan and Bryan Ferry of Roxy Music and became called glam rock style. Many styles have evolved over time, like double breasted, three button, broad to narrow lapel and again. However the basic structured and form of the modern-day suit is different little within the last few one hundred years. We’ve been locked into repetitive style cycles with the original concept for many people decades. Currently the two button single breasted that has a more tailored silhouette is standard, with all the younger generation selecting what is referred to as bum freezer. In this case the jacket is cut very short with the base on the torso, trousers low rise, the same as the old fashioned hipster with stove pipe trouser legs to finish the look.
Suiting was initially commercialised on Savile Row, the oldest and quite a few famous of tailoring precincts on earth. Tailors started doing work there around 1803. With Henry Poole credited for creating the first dinner suit. It later became often known as the Tuxedo, named after Tuxedo Park in New York State, an American Indian term meaning moving water. Kings, Princes wealthy industrialists, Hollywood movie stars and rock music stars carved a approach to Savile Row spending huge amount of money on luxurious suits created from the finest Australian Marino Wool. In the early 60’s Tommy Nutter opened for business noisy . 60’s financially backed by Cilla Black. He became famous for reinventing Savile Row. The first to have open window displays which caused some controversy, this practise was considered brash by old fashioned tailor traditionalists who generally worked in today’s world. Nutter dressed the Beatles for your famous Abbey Road album cover. Other clients include Mick Jagger, Bianca Jagger and Elton John.
Soon after Spencer Tracey passed on his long-time partner and confidant Catherine Hepburn travelled to Savile Row to repay a visit to the tailor that made Tracey’s suits. She ordered a set of tailor made denims and unintentionally gave birth to clothes jean trend from the 70s. Based on this innovation Richard James another contemporary of Savile Row tailored suits created from selvage Denim woven in Japan.
Renowned Italian woollen mill and suit maker Zegna have already been buying the best super fine Marino wool from Australia since 1910. Apart from their ready-manufactured from the peg apparel, they receive 60 to 80 special orders per year for suits which will set you back $34,000. Zegna are carrying about the Savile Row tradition using the optimum quality cloth available.
The need for bespoke suiting has declined dramatically during the last three decades. The range of cuts and price point obtainable in department stores is usually a major cause of the decline in sales on Savile Row, with numerous tailoring firms the need to downsize and get into mainstream ready-made market. Now you can purchase an over peg Italian made suit in super fine Marino wool for less than $2,000.
The current day suit survives, however fewer men are likely to wear them, choosing a more casual style. Large accounting and law offices have taken the step far from tradition and for many people suit and tie has stopped being a standard dress requirement with the office. Is this the best thing? I think not; it demonstrates an absence of self-discipline and self -respect. Men are easily swayed by office peer group pressure and can generally adhere to the crowd. Those who opt to step out and spice up are the long lasting winners, so suit up.